1802 John Carr (3)
Géricault Life
Rouen in 1824. Place de la Haute-Vieille-Tour à Rouen Giuseppe Canella, Musée de Beaux-Arts de Rouen
John Carr from England to France in early 1802. Carr describes the voyage to Le Havre in our first excerpt from his account, and then his journey overland from Le Havre to Rouen, where Géricault was born on September 26, 1791. Enjoy Carr’s description of Rouen and the ancient city’s inhabitants.
1802 – John Carr – Rouen (part 1)
“…At the Bureau, we paid twelve livres and a half for our places and luggage from Havre to this town.
Chapter V
A female french fib. — Military and Civil Procession. — Madame G. — The Review. — Mons. l’Abbé. — Bridge of Boats. — The Quay. — Exchange. — Theatre. — Rouen. — Cathedral. — St. Ouens. — Prince of Waldee. — Maid of Orleans.
Having collected together all our luggage, and seen it safely lodged in a porter’s wheelbarrow, Captain C. and I bade adieu to our fellow travellers, and to these solemn and unsuitable habitations of ostlers and horses, and proceeded through several narrow streets, lined with lofty houses, the shops of which were all open, and the shopkeepers, chiefly women, looked respectable and sprightly, with gay bouquets in their bosoms, to the Hôtel de l’Europe; it is a fine inn, to which we had been recommended at Havre, kept by Madame F –, who, with much politeness, and many captivating movements, dressed à-la-Grec, with immense golden earings, approached us, and gave us a little piece of information, not very pleasant to travellers somewhat discoulored by the dust of a long and sultry day’s journey, who wanted comfortable rooms, fresh linen, a little coffee, and a good night’s repose: her information was, that her house was completely full, but that she would send to an upholsterer to fit up two beds for us, in a very neat room, which she had just papered and furnished, opposite to the porter’s lodge (all the great inns and respectable townhouses in France have great gates, and a porter’s lodge, at the entrance.) As we wished to have three rooms, we told her, we were friends of Messrs. G–, (the principal merchants of Rouen.) She said, they were very amiable men, and were pleased to send all their friends to her house (a little french fib of Madame F–’s, by the by, as will appear hereafter); and she was truly sorry that she could not accomodate us better. We looked into the room, which also looked into the street, was exposed to all its noise, and very small. So we made our bows to Madame F–, and proceeded with our wheel-barrow to the Hôtel de Poitiers — a rival house. It is situated in the beautiful boulevards, which I have mentioned, and is part of a row of fine stonebuilt houses. Upon our ringing the bell, Madame P– presented herself. We told her, were just arrived at Rouen, that we had the honor of being known to Messrs. G–, and should be happy to be placed under her roof, and wished to have two lodging rooms and a sitting room to ourselves. Madame P—-, who possessed that sort of good and generous heart, which nature, for its better preservation, had lodged in a comfortable envelope of comely plumpness, observed that Messrs. G— were gentlemen of great respectability, were her patrons, and always sent their friends to her house ( a point upon which these rival dames were at issue, but the truth was with Madame P–); that she would do all in her power to make us happy; but at present, on account of her house being very crowded, she could only offer us two bedrooms. We were too tired to think of any further peregrinations of discovery; so we entered our bedrooms, which, like most of the chambers in France, had brick floors without any carpetting; they were, however, clean; and, after ordering a good fire in one of them (for the sudden and unusual frost, which , in the beginning of summer, committed so much ravage throughout Europe, commenced the day we had first the honor of seeing Madame P—); and, after enjoying those comforts which weary wanderers require, we mounted our lofty beds, and went to rest.
The next day we presented our letter, and ourselves, to Madame G–, the amiable mother of the gentlemen I have mentioned. She received us with great politeness, and immediately arranged a dinner party for us that day. It being rather early in the morning, we were admitted into her chamber, a common custom of receiving early visits in France.
About eleven o’clock we saw a splendid procession of all the military and civil authorities to the hôtel (Hôtel, in France, means either an inn, or private house of consequence.) of the prefect, which was opposite to our inn. The object of this cavalcade was to congratulate the arch-bishop of Rouen (who was then upon a visit to the prefect, until his own palace was ready to receive him) on his elevation to the see. This spectacle displayed the interference of God, in thus making the former enemies of worship pay homage to his ministers, after a long reign of atheism and persecution.
About twelve o’clock, which is the hour of parade throughout the republic, we went to the Champ de Mars and saw a review of the 20th regiment of chasseurs, under the command of generals St. Hiliare and Ruffin, who, as well as the regiment, had particularly distinguished themselves at Marengo. The men were richly appointed, and in general well mounted. They all wore mustachios. They had just arrived from Amiens, where, as a mark of honor, they had been quartered during the negotiation. The officers were superbly attired. St. Hiliare is a young man, and in person much resembles his patron and friend, the first consul; and, they say, in abilities also.
Some of the horses were of a dissimilar size and color, which had a bad effect; but I was informed, upon making the remark, that they had lost many in battle, and had not had time properly to replace them. They were all strong and fiery, and went through their evolutions with surprising swiftness.
At dinner our party was very agreeable. Next to me sat a little abbè, who appeared to be in years, but full of vivacity, and seemed to be much esteemed by every person present. During the time of terrour (as the French emphatically call the gloomy reign of Robespierre) the blood of this good man, who, from his wealth, piety, and munificence, possessed considerable influence in Rouen, was sought after with keen pursuit. Madame G— was the savior of his life, by concealing him, previous to her own imprisonment, for two years, in different cellars, under her house, which she rendered as warm and as comfortable as circumstances, and the nature of the concealment, would allow. In one of these cells of humane secresy, this worthy man has often his solitary and agitated meal, whilst the soldiers of the tyrant, who were quartered upon his protectress, were carousing in the kitchen immediately above him.
Soon after our coffee, which, in this country, immediately succeeds the dinner, we went to view the bridge of boats, so celebrated in history. This curious structure was contrived by an augustine friar named Michael Boueouis, it is composed of timber, regularly paved, in squares which contain the stories, and is about 1000 feet in length (The french feet are to the english as 1068 to 1000.); it commenses from the middle of the quay of Rouen, and reaches over to the Fauxbourg of St. Sever, and carries on the communication with the country which lies south of the city. It was begun in the year 1626, below it are the ruins of the fine bridge of 13 arches, built by the empress Maud, daughter of Henry I of England. This ingenious fabric rests upon 19 immense barges, which fall and rise with the flowing and subsiding of the tide. When vessels have occasion to pass it, a portion of the platform sufficient to admit their passage is raised, and rolled over the other part. In winter, when any danger is apprehended from large flakes of ice, which float down the river, the whole is taken to pieces in an bour. The expense of keeping it in repair is estimated at 10000 livres, or 400 pounds sterling per annum, and is defrayed by government, it being the high-road to Picardy. Upon the whole, although this bridge is so much admired I must confess it appeared to me a heavy performance, unsuitable to the wealth, and splendour of the city of Rouen, and below the taste and ingenuity of modern times. A handsome light stone structure, with a centre arch convered with a drawbridge, for the passage of vessels of considerable burden, or a lofty flying iron bridge, would be less expensive, more safe, and much more ornamental.
The view from the bridge up the Seine, upon the islands below mount St. Catherine, is quite enchanting. Upon the quay, although it was a Sunday, a vast number of people were dancing, drinking, and attending shows and lotteries. Here were people of various nations, parading up and down in the habits and dress of their respective countries, which produced quite the effect of a masquerade. The river Seine is so deep at this place, that ships of three hundred tons burden are moored close to the quay, and make a very fine appearance. The exchange for the merchants is parallel to the center of the quay, and is a long paved building of about 400 feet in length, open at top, having a handsome iron balustrade, and seats towards the Seine, and a high stone wall towards the town. Over all the great gates of the city , is written, in large characters, ‘Liberty, Equality, Humanity, Fraternity or Death:’ the last two words have been painted over, but are still faintly legible.
In the evening we went to the french opera, which was very crowded. The boxes were adorned with genteel people, and many beautiful young women. The theatre is very large, elegant, and handsome, and the players were good. I was struck by the ridiculous antics, and gestures of the chef in the orchestra, a man whose office is to beat time to the musicians. In the municipality box which was in the center, lined with green silk, and gold, were two fine young women who appeared to be ladies of fashion, and consequence; they were dressed after the antique, in an attire which, for lightness, and scantiness I never saw equalled, till I saw it surpassed at Paris. They appeared to be clothed only in jewels, and a little muslin, very gracefully disposed, the latter, to borrow a beautiful expression, had the appearance of ‘woven air.’ — From emotions of gratitude, for the captivating display which they made, I could not help offering a few fervent wishes, that the light of the next day might find them preserved from the dreadful consequences of a very bitter cold night…”
Carr, John. The Stranger in France, or A Tour from Devonshire to Paris. London: J. Johnson, 1803.